Structure of the hair strand
Each strand of hair consists of three layers:
1. Medulla (hair core): Inner layer or central core with keratinized cells.
2. Cortex (hair cortex): Middle layer that surrounds the medulla. It is a bundle of keratin fibers and other substances (melanin, which gives our hair color). It provides flexibility and resistance.
3rd cuticle (top layer): A scaly, textured outer layer. It consists of overlapping layers of dead cells. Its function is to regulate the absorption/release of moisture and to protect the other layers from external influences.
Exfoliation and deep scalp cleansing (or detox method)
"Beautiful hair starts with a healthy scalp"
How do you get a healthy scalp? Two specific methods will help you here:
1st method for a healthy scalp: Scalp peeling
This method has many benefits:
- Promotes microcirculation of the scalp.
- Helps to loosen dead cells and regenerate those underneath.
- Removes sebum deposits, dandruff and excess oil.
- Balances the pH value of the scalp and cleanses it thoroughly.
There are two types of peeling:
- Mechanical peeling: With ingredients such as sugar, salt, coffee grounds, clay, etc.
- Chemical peeling: Acids or enzymes (from papaya, mango, pineapple, etc.) are used for this type of peeling.
The general recommendation is to exfoliate the scalp once a month. The frequency depends on the sebum, dandruff or excess oil deposits you need to remove.
2nd method for a healthy scalp: Detox method through intensive cleansing of the scalp
The detox method is very useful for removing lighter deposits on the scalp.
Detox hair masks are used for this purpose. These hair masks contain clay and, unlike scrubs, have ingredients that balance dry hair (aloe vera, glycerine, panthenol or provitamin B5 etc.).
Balanced hair routine with moisture and/or proteins
Healthy hair that is sufficiently supplied with Humidity is supplied with plenty of water and moisturizing products. Water is the basis of scalp care, as it helps to provide the necessary nutrients for the scalp. through the blood vessels, which are important for the growth and healthy appearance of the hair.
Proteins are the main component of our hair. There are different proteins, depending on their molecular size:
- Large or whole molecules: They are contained in food (eggs, beer, etc.). They cannot penetrate the hair strand.
- Medium-sized molecules: The original whole molecules are divided into smaller molecules. They form a thin and flexible layer around the hair strand. They are called hydrolyzed proteins (e.g. hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed rice, hydrolyzed quinoa, etc.).
- Smaller molecules: They are able to penetrate the cuticle and retain moisture in the deeper layers of the hair strand. Examples include amino acids (arginine, alanine, valine, proline, glycine, lysine, etc.), peptides, collagen, hydrolyzed silk protein, etc.
Why moisture and proteins are important in the hair routine
The moisture and the amount of proteins in our hair can be influenced by various factors:
- Chemical hair treatments
- Regular use of heat appliances
- The influence of the PH value in chlorinated water when you go swimming
- Environmental factors
- Hair with high porosity
- Lack of water absorption
- and more
Regardless of the porosity of our hair, the loss of protein and moisture in our hair routine must be replaced regularly to prevent frizz (lack of moisture) and temporarily repair damaged areas of the hair strand (sufficient amount of protein). It is important to keep in mind that protein builds the structure of the hair by filling the gaps (damage) in the cuticle, preventing water loss and making the hair much stronger.
Possible symptoms of hair suffering from a lack of moisture
- Dry or straw-like hair
- Easy breaking of the hair strand
- Lots of frizz when the hair is dry
Possible symptoms of hair affected by protein deficiency
- frizzy hair when it is damp or wet
- the hair has no strength or vigor
- the curls do not form if the natural hair structure is curly or wavy
You can recognize the concentration of proteins in a hair product by their position in the Inci list (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient). If the proteins are in the first four or five ingredients of the ingredient list, this means that the product contains a high amount. If the protein is at the end of the Inci list or after ingredients such as flavors or fragrances, this means that the product contains a low amount of proteins.
A hair routine with the perfect balance between moisture and protein
Some of the products in the hair routine that stay on the hair for longer (hair masks, leave-in and styling products) should contain proteins. However, the amount is crucial here and varies from hair to hair. The addition of moisturizers is also necessary for healthy hair.
Two possible combinations as examples:
Hair routine #1
- Focus on proteins in hair masks and styling products
- Focus on moisturizers in conditioner, conditioner, leave-in
Hair routine #2
- Focus on proteins in hair mask & leave-in product
- Focus on moisturizers in rinse-out conditioner and styling products
The importance of hair masks, leave-ins and the squish-to-condish method
Why hair masks are important
Throughout the year and in summer when temperatures are high, hair loses moisture and nutrients. A hair mask can therefore be one of your closest allies to replenish the hair strand.
For a hair mask to be truly effective for your hair, it must be left on for a minimum of 30 minutes and a maximum of 2 hours. If heat is applied (e.g. with a thermal cap), the penetration of the nutrients into the hair is favored and the application time can be shortened (but never less than 30 minutes).
What is a leave-in product and what is it important for
A leave-in product is a final product that does not need to be rinsed out and therefore remains in the hair. When a leave-in product is used, the hair retains moisture for longer.
The appropriate leave-in product should be selected according to the thickness and porosity of the hair. A leave-in with a formulation rich in plant extracts, moisturizing active ingredients and a small amount of emollient emollients (oils and butters) is perfect for fine hair. Thick hair accepts emollients better (but be careful... they can build up in the hair).
The "squish to condish" technique
This technique helps to retain maximum moisture. The hair becomes more flexible, moisturized and hydrated. It reduces the friction of the individual hair strands and therefore also the frizz.
"Squish to condish" is done with conditioner. The method ensures that all the ingredients in the formulation reach all areas of the hair strands.
http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2018/08/conditioning-technique-squish-to.html
You can see exactly how this method works in numerous videos on YouTube & Co.
Other useful tips for healthy hair
1. do not use homemade hair masks made with food (eggs, beer, etc.). Remember that food contains too large and impenetrable whole protein molecules in the hair strand. You won't be able to get any benefit from it.
2. Practice the "squish to condish" technique. If you don't know how to do it, tell us. We'll help you!
3. Use a scalp massage brush while washing your hair. This will help distribute the product, improve blood circulation and promote hair growth.
4. Protect your hair while you sleep with silk or satin caps or pillowcases. This will prevent friction between the strands and possible hair breakage. You will significantly reduce frizzy hair!
5. Don't sleep with damp or wet hair, as this encourages the appearance of fungus in the hair. And nobody really wants that.
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