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Alcohol

It can replace preservatives as it has an antimicrobial effect above a certain concentration, but without causing allergies. (Cf. www.cosmacon.de)

Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol from vegetable oils. It has an emulsifying, emulsion-stabilizing, clouding, viscosity regulating and softening effect. (Cf. www.cosmeticanalysis.com)

Fatty alcohols are used to improve or strengthen creams, have a skin-smoothing effect and are non-greasy; (Cf. Glauninger, Angelika. Cosmetics: ingredients and recipes)

Ascorbic acid

Ascorbic acid

Inhibits reactions promoted by oxygen, prevents oxidation and rancidity, stabilises the pH value of cosmetic products, strengthens the immune system, smoothes the skin, protects against free radicals, stimulates cell renewal, promotes wound healing, strengthens connective tissue (see www.cosmeticanalysis.com)

Behennussöl, Moringa
Moringa pterygo sperm seed oil

Moringa is by far the most nutrient-rich plant known to science. It is rich in antioxidants, not only cleanses but also closes the pores and leaves the skin feeling very soft and smooth. (Cf. www.cosmacon.de)

Succinic acid

diheptyl succinate

The most important active ingredient effect is that it fills the cells with energy. Thus the skin becomes younger and more elastic. Another important point is that succinic acid in anti-aging products has hardly any side effects, as it can also be synthesized by our own body.

In cosmetics the esters of succinic acid (succinates) are used as emulsifiers and emollients (e.g. diethylhexyl succinates, diheptyl succinates etc.). (Cf. www. cosmacon.de)

leaf extract of the Niembaum

Melia azadirachta leaf extract

None has a disinfectant, anti-inflammatory, immune-system strengthening effect (Cf. Glauninger, Angelika. cosmetics: Ingredients and Formulas

Flower liquid of the Damask Rose

Rosa damascena (rose) flower water*

Naturally rich in antioxidants and excellent at reducing redness.

Capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer

A copolymer of capryloyl glycerol and sebacic acid monomers, film forming, skin caring, skin protecting (see www.cosmeticanalysis.com)

Often this ingredient is also produced chemically. Of course the ingredient can be produced from oils. An example of the natural composition would be as follows:

Capryloyl= caprylic acid from coconut, glycerin = a by-product of fatty acid production from coconut. Sebacic acid = from castor oil. The reaction is 100% renewable and requires no solvents or petrochemicals. The only by-product of the reaction is water and the process is very energy efficient. (See www.newdirections.com)

Cetearyl alcohol

A mixture of cetyl alcohol (hexadecanol) and stearyl alcohol (octadecanol) These are fatty alcohols, as the two components are often produced by reducing the corresponding fatty acids. However, cetyl alcohol (hexadecanol) and stearyl alcohol (octadecanol) can also be obtained by hydrolysis of waxes, for example. Cetearyl alcohol is very well tolerated, non-toxic and easily biodegradable.

It supports the formation of emulsions and improves the product stability. It is emulsifying, i.e. it allows the formation of finely dispersed mixtures of oil and water and makes the skin smooth and supple. (Cf. www.haut.de)

cetyl palmitate

Cetyl Palmitate (also known as "Walratersatz") is a refatting consistency enhancer that supports and improves emulsion formation.

Cetyl palmitate is obtained by esterification of fatty acids and fatty alcohol. Only vegetable raw materials are used.

Creams produced with walrate substitute become very compact and leave a pleasant skin feeling. Especially people who are allergic to beeswax find cetyl alcohol and spermaceti a good alternative. (Cf. www. alexmo-cosmetics.de)

Extract from rice germ oil

Oryza sativa (rice) seed extract*

Helps to lighten and even improve skin tone.

It is a clear, yellow-brown oil whose fatty acid composition contains high levels of linoleic and palmitic acid. It contains a lot of vitamin E and especially high concentrations of oryzanol.


Rice germ oil can support the applied SPF as a natural sun protection, is a moisturizer and is excellent for soothing sensitive skin. (Cf. www.alexmo-cosmetics.de)

Glycerine

Glycerol is a polyvalent alcohol and a natural component of fats and oils and of human metabolism, but is mainly produced synthetically. The glycerol which is mostly available as 86% aqueous solution has a disinfecting effect and is one of the oldest skin moisturizers. Pure glycerol irritates the skin, even an addition of more than 30 % dries the skin out as glycerol is water-attracting like all polyalcohols and in dry ambient air it extracts moisture from the skin.

Cf. Glauninger, Angelika. cosmetics: Ingredients and formulations (German Edition)

Glycerol stearate citrate, stearic acid-citric acid-glycerol ester

Glyceryl stearate citrates

Emulsifier of stearic acid, monoester with glycerine. (Cf. www. Hautschutzengel.de)

Has an emulsifying effect, keeps the skin smooth and supple. (Cf. www.haut.de)

Glyceryl caprylate has a biologically stabilizing, moisture regulating and moisturizing effect. Furthermore, it is extremely skin-friendly. It is particularly suitable for the stabilisation of surfactants and O/W emulsions. (Cf. www.cosmacon.de)

glyceryl caprylate

glyceryl caprylate, as monoester of Glycerine with caprylic acid, due to its structure, is mainly used to stabilize O/W emulsions and surfactants. The ingredient has a refatting and moisture regulating effect and is also highly effective against bacteria and yeasts. This antimicrobial activity makes it possible to do without traditional preservatives. (Cf. www.alexmo-cosmetics.de)

Coconut extract

Cocos nucifera (coconut) extract*

As a multifunctional ingredient, Coconut Extract gives skin and hair a silky texture without the feeling of an oily residue. Coconut Extract seals moisture and provides essential macro nutrients. It strengthens the barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss. Its intensive moisturizing properties give the skin and hair a soft, moisturized surface. (Cf. www.alexmo-cosmetics.de)

Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract is the extract of the leaves of Myrothamnus Flabellifolia, Myrothamnus. The extract nourishes the skin. (See www.cosmeticanalysis.com) and makes it smooth and supple (See www.haut.de)

Oil of Damask Rose

Rosa damascena (rose) flower oil

Naturally rich in antioxidants and excellent at reducing redness.

Oil of the candle nut tree

Aleurites moluccana (kukui) nut oil*

Rich in linoleic acid, the oil of the candle nut tree is moisturizing and balancing and therefore suitable for all skin types. (Cf. www. herbivore.com)

Propanediol

Propanediol is a moisturizer and improves the skin feel of formulations. At the same time it enhances the effectiveness of the antimicrobial ingredients. (Cf. www.alexmo-cosmetics.de). In most cases propanediol is produced synthetically. However, when I was asked directly, I was told that the raw material used by Herbivore is naturally produced by a fermentation process from corn sugar

Rose Geranium (Perlagonium Graveolens)

A cleansing, refreshing oil that balances the skin. It can be used as a natural and gentle astringent to cleanse the skin and helps to treat impurities and acne and small wounds, including cuts, abrasions and minor burns. Rose Geranium can also help to maintain skin elasticity and balance sebum production in the skin. It is also considered helpful in fading scars. This oil can also be useful in the treatment of skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis and can even be used on the scalp and hair to control oil production. Rose geranium oil also has a very soothing and calming fragrance that helps to relax and reduce stress.

Rosemary leaf extract

Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract*

Rosemary has antiseptic and antibacterial effects and also promotes wound healing. Rosemary oil also acts as a pH buffer and thus helps the skin to adjust its pH value. (Cf. Klum, Yasmina. essential oils)

Salts of hyaluronic acid

Sodium hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid belongs to the mucopolysaccharides, acts in the body as a kind of cementing substance between the cells and is found, among other things, in the connective tissue of the skin. It is (rarely still) produced from cockscombs or biotechnologically by bacteria. With aging skin the content of hyaluronic acid decreases, but this cannot be replaced by cosmetics because the molecules of hyaluronic acid are too large to penetrate the connective tissue. Nevertheless, it serves as a moisturizer and thus combines with the keratin of the skin, so that a slight tension is created during evaporation, which can conjure away small wrinkles. (Cf. Glauninger, Angelika. cosmetics: ingredients and recipes)

Salts of phytic acid

Sodium phytate

May affect the stability and/or appearance of cosmetic products, reduces the activity of microorganisms on the skin. (See www.cosmeticanalysis.com)

Shea butter, shea butter

Butyrospermum parkii (shea) nut butter*

The effect of shea butter is due to its valuable, anti-inflammatory and above all moisturising ingredients. Of all vegetable fats, shea butter has the highest proportion of unsaponifiable components (11%), which makes it suitable for the care of all skin types. Besides, it is very rich in various vitamins and minerals, including high amounts of triterpenes and triterpene alcohols, stearic acid, beta-carotene, allantoin and omega-3 fatty acids. Vitamin E is particularly noteworthy. Shea butter provides the skin with a protective layer that cannot be washed off again. Valuable ingredients can perfectly penetrate the skin, isolate it from environmental influences and even contribute to cell regeneration. Allantoin has an anti-inflammatory effect and has a positive influence on wound healing, which is why shea butter can also provide relief for dry and eczema-prone skin as well as for skin diseases such as neurodermatitis or psoriasis. Shea butter is also effective for scars, as it reduces them. (Cf. www.natur-kompendium.com)

Sodium anisate

antimicrobial, masking, reduces or inhibits the basic smell or taste of the product reduces the activity of micro-organisms on the skin, antimicrobial (Cf. www.cosmeticanalysis.com)

Sunflower oil

Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil*

It is considered a very light and mildly caring oil with an even anti-inflammatory effect, which is due to its tocopherol content. This proportion also protects the skin lipids from oxidation and ensures that the oil is easily absorbed. It is considered to be cell renewing and even reduces excessive sebum production. Due to its vitamin E content it can also be used as an anti-aging agent and increases the elasticity of the skin in the long run. In principle, the oil is considered to be very well tolerated, but people suffering from couperose should be careful. The redness associated with the disease can be further increased by the slightly warming effect of Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil. (Cf. www. cosmacon.de)

Swamp daisies

Eclipta prostrate extract

Cares for the skin and keeps it in good condition. (Cf. www.haut.de)

Virgin Olive Oil (Olea europea)

Olive oil keeps the skin soft and helps it to retain moisture. It can also be used for the hair. It is also full of antioxidants that help fight free radicals and prevent cell destruction. Extra virgin olive oil consists of more than 80 percent oleic acid. Oleic acid easily penetrates the skin and can heal damage, which can improve the skin's appearance.

White tea leaf extract

Camellia sinensis (white tea) leaf extract*

Rich in antioxidants, makes the skin radiant, densifies the skin surface, acts against free radicals, creates a pleasant feeling on skin, keeps the skin in good condition, can serve as UV protection, helps with light damage (see www.cosmeticanalysis.com)

Xanthan gum

xanthan gum

Xanthan gum (E 415) is a vegan fermentation product based on natural microorganisms. It is obtained from sugar-containing substrates with the aid of xanthomonas bacteria and is used, among other things, as a thickening and gelling agent. Xanthan Gum moisture-binding. The substance reduces the transepidermal water loss so that the skin is prevented from drying out. (Cf. www.cosmacon.de)

Ylang-ylang oil

Ylang-ylang, also known as Kananga from the magnolia family, is mainly native to Indonesia and South East Asia. The oil is obtained by steam distillation of the flowers. It has skin caring, antiseptic and skin renewing properties and can also be used for insect bites. In aromatherapy, ylang-ylang has a calming, erotic and nerve-strengthening effect. It can be used against anxiety, depression and depressiveness and gives harmony.

The scent of the oil is sweet and flowery and at the same time a little woody. So it is also good for treating skin problems such as acne, as it regulates the production of fat in the sebaceous glands. It also has a strong antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effect. The oil also shows significant effects against skin fungi. It can be applied directly to the infected skin areas. Thus it is also well suited for the treatment of skin problems such as acne, as it regulates the production of fat in the sebaceous glands. It also has a strong antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effect. The oil also shows significant effects against skin fungi. It can be applied directly to the infected skin areas. (Cf. Klum, Yasmina. essential oils)

Citric acid

citric acid

may influence the stability and/or appearance of cosmetic products, keratolytic (helps to remove dead cells from the horny layer), stabilizes the pH of cosmetic products (see www.cosmeticanalysis.com)

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